DISCOVER FUKUI

Eiheiji Temple was founded in 1244 by Dogen Zenji, the revered monk who introduced Soto Zen Buddhism to Japan from China. It is the head temple of the Soto Zen sect, and today many unsui from across Japan are engaged in a rigorous daily life of ascetic training here.

Located approximately 10 minutes by car from the Eiheiji Sandou Interchange on the Chubu-Jukan Expressway, the temple is nestled in a mountain valley. From Fukui Station, a convenient direct bus runs daily (approximately 30 minutes to the temple gate area). The temple is open year-round for visits, from 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM. If you make a reservation in advance, you can also participate in the "choka" early-morning Buddhist service, a solemn ceremony conducted before dawn. In the taut, still air of early morning, the sound of sutra chanting (reading aloud of Buddhist scriptures) reverberates throughout the temple grounds — dozens of unsui chanting in unison is a truly awe-inspiring sight. Make an effort to rise early and experience it for yourself.

Eiheiji Temple's vast grounds of 330,000 m² contain more than 70 buildings, of which 19 are designated Important Cultural Properties (Juyo Bunkazai — structures recognized by the Japanese government as having outstanding historical, artistic, or cultural value). Among these, the Shichido Garan — the "Seven Essential Halls," the core complex of buildings indispensable to Buddhist monastic practice ー are considered the most important buildings for training. They consist of seven structures: the Sanmon (main gate), Butsuden (Buddha Hall), Hatto (Dharma Hall), Sodo (monks' hall), Daikuin (kitchen), Yokushitsu (bathhouse), and Tosu (lavatory). These seven buildings are connected by covered corridors and staircases. The standard way to pay your respects is to tour the Shichido Garan at a leisurely pace while reflecting on the teachings of Zen.

After leaving the Kichijokaku, your first destination is the Sanshokaku "Hall of the Umbrella Pines." The large hall on the second floor is known as the "Painted Ceiling Room" (E-Tenjo no Ma), and features 230 ceiling paintings created by 144 leading Japanese painters of the Showa era, the period from 1926 to 1989 during which Japan underwent sweeping modernization and artistic flourishing. The sight of these paintings filling the ceiling of the vast 160-tatami hall is truly spectacular. Most of the paintings depict flowers and birds, but it is said that just five of them feature living creatures such as carp, kara-jishi (mythical lions), and others. Take your time admiring the beauty of each panel — and try to find those special five.

Leaving the Sanshokaku, you next enter the heart of the visit: the Shichido Garan. The tour of the corridors begins at the "Sanmon" — the main gate of a Buddhist temple, symbolizing the "three gates of liberation" in Zen thought.

The Sanmon, built approximately 270 years ago, is the oldest structure at Eiheiji Temple. It is a two-story structure: the lower level enshrines the Shitenno Four Heavenly Kings of Buddhist cosmology ー Jikokuten, Tamonten, Komokuten, and Zochoten — while the upper level enshrines the Gohyaku Rakan 500 Arhats, enlightened disciples of the Buddha. The entire structure is built using kumiki, a traditional Japanese wooden joinery technique using no nails or metal fittings, and the exquisite craftsmanship of the artisans is evident throughout.

The Sanmon is a special gate: only trainee monks may pass through it, upon entering the temple to begin their training and upon departing after completing it. Each year between February and March, aspiring monks climb the snow-covered stone steps to stand before this gate. The length of the training period varies from person to person — there is no fixed rule. As you make your way along the corridors, let your thoughts wander to the determination with which these monks enter through the Sanmon to begin their days of practice.

One of the Shichido Garan, the "Sodo," or "monks' hall," is where unsui carry out their daily lives. At Eiheiji Temple, every aspect of daily life is training. Each monk is assigned a single tan (tan — a space of approximately one tatami mat) in which zazen seated Zen meditation, meals, and sleep all take place. At the center of the hall is enshrined a statue of Monju Bosatsu (Manjushri, the Bodhisattva of Wisdom in Buddhism), with the individual tan arranged around it.

The Sodo is also one of the Sanmoku Dojo "Three Halls of Silence," where speaking is strictly forbidden, along with the bathhouse and the lavatory. It is a sacred place of training, and only unsui may enter. Photography is also not permitted, so please take note.

In the center of the Butsuden, or Buddha Hall, the main hall where the principal object of worship is enshrined, is the Shakyamuni Buddha (the historical Buddha, the central figure of Buddhism), flanked on the right by the Maitreya Buddha (the future Buddha in Buddhist belief) and on the left by the Amitabha Buddha (the Buddha of Infinite Light, central to Pure Land Buddhism). The midday and evening services are held here.

The Hatto, or "Dharma Hall," is used for sermons and large assemblies. Enshrined at the center of the main altar is Kanzeon Bosatsu (the Bodhisattva of Compassion, one of the most widely revered figures in Japanese Buddhism). With a floor area of 420 tatami mats, it is used for the early morning services when all unsui gather together, as well as for various Buddhist ceremonies. Located at the highest point within the temple grounds, the Hatto offers a commanding view of the entire complex — savor the solemn atmosphere alongside the beautiful scenery with a quietly settled heart.

The "Joyoden" is the most hallowed place in Eiheiji Temple, enshrining the image, memorial tablet (ihai — a wooden ancestral tablet inscribed with the posthumous Buddhist name of the deceased, used in memorial rites), and sacred remains of Dogen Zenji, the founder of Eiheiji Temple. It is said that the unsui serve Dogen Zenji as though he were still living among them today. Wooden statues of the successive head priests through the fifth generation after Dogen Zenji are also enshrined here.

The Joyoden was rebuilt in 1881 following a fire in 1879, and its architecture is said to be exceptionally elaborate. Photography of the interior is not permitted, but the taut, sacred air can be felt in person. Be sure also to notice the kibana — the magnificent carvings on the pillars are well worth admiring.

The "Daikuin" is a particularly large building with one basement floor and four above-ground floors. It serves primarily as the kitchen overseeing meals, but also houses storage facilities for supplies, as well as departments responsible for accounting and maintenance, making it a critical and central location for Eiheiji Temple. Enshrined at the front and center is Ida Sonten, a guardian deity in Buddhism, traditionally regarded as the protector of monasteries and provisions.

The unsui assigned to food preparation cook both the meals offered before the Buddha and the meals for the monks themselves. As for the meals: breakfast consists of okayu (rice porridge, a simple and nourishing staple), sesame salt, pickles (tsukemono — traditional Japanese preserved vegetables), and umeboshi (pickled plum, a sour-salty Japanese condiment); lunch is ichiju issai ("one soup, one side dish," a minimalist meal format rooted in Zen austerity); and dinner is ichiju nisai ("one soup, two side dishes"). The cooking style is shojin ryori Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, characterized by the complete absence of meat and fish, and by the creative use of plant-based ingredients. One distinctive technique is "modoki ryori," or "imitation cooking," in which ingredients such as wheat gluten are prepared to resemble meat or fish, a uniquely inventive approach within shojin ryori.

Standing conspicuously in front of the Daikuin is an oversized surikogi, a traditional Japanese wooden pestle used with a mortar. The pole used to tamp the ground when the Butsuden was built has been displayed here in the form of a surikogi.

Eiheiji Temple has so much to offer, but the delights of the journey do not end there. After fully savoring your visit to the temple, be sure to explore the monzen-machi, the traditional "temple gate town" that grew up in front of the temple to serve pilgrims and visitors. Lined with restaurants and souvenir shops, it offers a rich array of local foods and treats that you simply must try here: goma-dofu (sesame tofu, a specialty of Buddhist cuisine made from ground sesame and kuzu starch rather than soybeans), Eiheiji soba (buckwheat noodles, a local specialty of the area), goriyaku dango (auspicious rice-flour dumplings believed to bring blessings and good fortune), and more. Even simply strolling past the shops is sure to be a heartwarming experience.

The Eiheiji Daruma Pudding — a smooth, melt-in-your-mouth pudding served in a charming cup decorated with a Daruma, a traditional Japanese good-luck figure based on Bodhidharma, the legendary founder of Zen ー which has become a popular new specialty of Eiheiji, makes a perfect auspicious souvenir. Official site: https://daruma-pudding.com/ [JP]

Enrich your journey further with a stroll through the lively, tourist-filled monzen-machi.

Finally, here is a very special Zen-experience inn to introduce. Located in the revitalized old approach street (restored in 2019), where the gentle sound of the Eiheiji River murmurs pleasantly nearby, "Hakujukan" is a comfortable accommodation that blends the best of a ryokan traditional Japanese inn and a shukubo lodging facility attached to a temple or shrine, where guests can experience monastic life. In the Zen space known as the "Kaiya Room," even when training experiences within Eiheiji Temple itself are unavailable due to the year-round schedule of religious observances, guests can experience zazen and shakyo (sutra copying) with the support of a "Zen Concierge" who has completed training at Eiheiji Temple.

The shojin ryori Buddhist vegetarian cuisine meticulously crafted under the supervision of Eiheiji Temple captures the spirit and techniques of Zen while also being visually beautiful, lifting the mood of your journey considerably. The inn incorporates locally sourced traditional crafts throughout its interiors — including Eiheiji cedar wood, Echizen Washi Paper (traditional handmade paper produced in the Echizen region, with 1,500 years of history, and designated an Important Intangible Cultural Property), and Echizen Lacquerware (traditional lacquered ware from the Echizen region, celebrated for its durability and refined aesthetic). An open-air bath, where you can breathe in the clear mountain air, awaits to soothe the fatigue of your travels. Spend a truly luxurious and deeply restorative time at this inn — the perfect conclusion to your journey through the Zen Village.